ENVS2731 Coastal Processes

2020

4.5

1 x 2-hour tutorial fortnightly
1 x 10-hour field trip per semester
1 x 81-hour independent study per semester
10 x 2-hour on-line exercises per semester
2 x 1-hour on-line lectures weekly

This course concentrates on the geological and oceanographic processes operative on the inner shelf-nearshore and beach environments. We will explore the mechanisms responsible for sea-level change and implications to coastal processes worldwide and in Australia. The propagation of surface gravity waves across the shelf to the adjacent coast will be investigated along with nearshore coastal processes. Wave and wind driven sand transport in the littoral zone will be discussed and the importance of storms presented. Finally, we will explore contemporary issues in coastal processes and implications for the applied aspect of the science.

The aims for this topic are for students to:

1. Understand how coastal processes can control the development of the coast
2. Explore the coupled suite of mutually interdependent hydrodynamic processes, seafloor morphologies and sequences of change along adjacent beaches
3. Comprehend how the understanding of coastal processes is critical in coastal management

On completion of this topic, students will be expected to be able to:

1. Understand the mechanisms responsible for sea-level change and implications to coastal processes worldwide and in Australia
2. Describe basic wave parameters, wave transformation from deep to shallow water
3. Explain longshore sediment transport and currents in the surfzone via quantitative analysis
4. Understand beach types and profile adjustment to tides, wave energy and sediment size
5. Discuss the control of coastal processes in the development of coastal environments and how these processes are assessed to mitigate coastal problems